The Boosta Grande delivers up to 20dB of clean gain without changing the original signal's sound.

Boosts gain without changing the original sound.

The Boosta Grande delivers up to 20dB of clean gain without changing the original signal's sound. Use it to drive your preamp tubes to the max, or as a line buffer/driver if you're experiencing degradation from other effects in the chain.

The Boosta Grande is built to last, and features hardwire bypass, single op-amp design, LED operation indicator, non-slip rubber bottom, and an easy-access 9V battery compartment. Includes AC power supply!

BBE Boosta Grande Clean Boost Effect Pedal Specifications:

Input Impedance: 1 MOhms

Output Impedance: 1 kOhms

Hardwire Bypass: Yes

Power Requirements:

DC inlet: +9VDC min. 200ma

Battery: 9VDC

Battery Life: 300 hours

Dimensions: 3-7/10"W x 1-4/5"H x 4-7/10"D

Shipping Weight: 3 lbs.

BBE Boosta Grande Clean Boost Effect Pedal 

Features:

20dB of clean gain boost

Hardwire bypass

Single op-amp design

LED indicator

Non-slip rubber bottom

Easy-access 9V battery compartment

Includes external AC adapter

Kick your sound up a few notches with some 

serious clean gain. Order now!

http://www.guitarpartsdepot.com/BBE_Pedals-BBE_Boosta_Grande.html

I ordered this pedal and a MXR micro amp. I use an A/B box to switch between and electric and an acoustic guitar. I needed to boost the volume on my acoustic to match the electric. After using both pedals I found that the Boosta Grande makes the tone "FATTER" while the MXR is almost transparent until about 3 oclock. BUY THE MXR.

Posted by Kshaw from southeast on Jan 28, 2009

Not much to say about it... It gets the job done! Nice and clean, true bypass, exactly what should be expected from a clean boost. I went to the store looking for an MXR micro amp, but they were out of stock. They recommended this one, at the same price, so I went for it.

A couple of downsides: First of all, there is no reason for a simple clean boost to take up that much space. There are pedals out there that do the same thing at 1/3 the size. Also, the paint job is god awful. On the other hand, anyone that spends $200 + for a boutique gain booster is an idiot. In a blind test, maybe 1 out of 100 people would be able to tell the difference. There are plenty of pedals under 90 bucks that will get the exact same job done.

I'm using this to boost the output of my strat (Tex Mex pickups) to match my Telecaster's hot rail pickup, and Les Paul's Burstbuckers. I have it at the front of my effects line, right before my Turbo Tubescreamer, which runs through my other effects and to a Vox AC15 with and Alnico Blue. I didn't need it to drive the tube so much as to get a little more signal to my tubescreamer. Again, gets the job done perfectly.

Posted by PaintItBlack999 from NC on Aug 16, 2008

Please take a look at the YouTube Videos Provided referencing this blog topic:

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_type=search_playlists&search_query=boosta+grande

The Floyd Rose Tremolo - Part 1

The Floyd Rose Tremolo - Part 1

Floyd Rose is the organization that licenses, distributes and manufactures the Floyd Rose Locking Tremolo invented by Floyd D. Rose. Made by Schaller in Germany, the Floyd Rose tremolos are some of the best, if not the best tremolo offered on guitars back in the 80's. Even today, most "metal" guitarists will agree there is no better locking tremolo on the market than these trems. Floyd and Kramer (a young guitarist/machinist), worked together to develop and distribute this unit. In fact, Kramer was the sole distributor of Floyd Rose trems in the 80's, even ones that were sold individually (not on guitars).

The Floyd Rose Tremolo is a full (floating¦ tremolo, pivoting on two large screws in the face of the guitar body, that allow upward movement as well as downward. It was best well known for its ability to stay in tune even after the most demanding of abuse. The Floyd Rose tremolo, contrary to popular belief, does not require the cutting of the ball¦ at the end of the string. However, it is held into place by six, vice-like clamping assemblies, one within each of the saddles. You can string the Floyd by placing the ball ends into the Tuner on the headstock as a "stop" and place the other end of the string in the base unit, then wind. Its fine tuners also have much better access since they are on the top of the unit, just past where the hand would rest on the tremolo for the muted effect.


The History of the Floyd Rose

Picture a freezing Reno, NV, practice room in the dead of winter, and a Hendrix-loving, whammy bar-crazed guitarist whose '57 strat just won't stay in tune. "This has got to stop," he says to himself disgustedly, and shlumps home determined to solve his problem once and for all. "I started at the E string" recalls Floyd Rose, inventor of the locking tremolo system, "and noticed that friction at the nut prevented the string from returning to pitch. My thought was that the string shouldn't move at all. So I glued it! This worked, but of course it wouldn't be practical for very long. But since I was making jewelry at the time and had lapidary tools, I got some brass and whitled a nut with clamps that held two strings each. With that, the instrument almost returned to tune, so I figured the bridge end was causing the rest of the problem."

Although tougher to solve, the hitch was the same-how to reduce the friction caused by metal-to-metal contact? Suspending the bridge in midair was impossible, so Floyd tried drilling two inverted cones into the underside of the bridge block and balancing it on two sharpened pivot points. This was an improvement but adjusting the height of the strings now became too difficult. The third and most workable choice was to use a fulcrum system, where the whole bridge assembly balanced on a single knife-edge and rocked back and forth with an action similar to a Jazz master’s "floating" bridge.


Rose drew up a patent design using a Les Paul, modifying its Bigsby tremolo with parts cast at the foundry where he worked. For his third prototype, though, he wanted machined parts and was shocked when a shop wanted $600 for the job. "I was so broke my parents had to pay," he admits sheepishly. "It worked really well for about 15 minutes, until the knife-edge went dull. I realized then that I needed to experiment with tougher materials, so I started studying metallurgy; and, after watching Mr. $600 work I decided to improve my shop skills too."

STAY TUNED FOR PART 2

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How To Buy A Pawn Shop Guitar The Safe Way

How To Buy A Pawn Shop Guitar The Safe Way

So here are some rules for pawn shop guitaring.

1. Never impulse buy

You see something you like, don't just grab it and run (unless you think you can get away without getting caught). Play the guitar for a while. Put it down and come back in the next few days. See if it still feels the same and has the same appeal as that initial reaction. The last thing that you want to do is to buy a guitar that you loved at the time only to take back to the same pawn shop a few weeks later.

2. Have a goal

This follows on from tip number one. Have a goal as to what type of guitar you are after. By that I mean you should a clear definition of what you want to buy. This will help you avoid the impulse buy, and focus your attention so you don't get distracted by all the shiny things in the shop. Going back to my PRS example, I've been looking for a nice guitar with soap bar style pickups now to round out my collection. Don't by a guitar that you don't need, unless of course it is something exceptional.

3. Play with the knobs and know how a guitar works

The ones on the guitar you dirty fiends. Turn all the knobs, waggle the lead, and flick all the switches. Make sure they all work, and if not, have a rough idea if you can fix it yourself or how much it may cost you. You don't want to spend $100 on a guitar and then have to do $300 worth of work on it.

4. Try some different amps

This is very important. The person running the pawn shop will always plug you into a small Fender combo and crank the reverb. I honestly think that those small combos were designed by Fender exclusively for the pawn shop industry because they make every guitar sound great. So try the guitar with that crappy 15W no name amp as well. It will give you a much better idea on the true sound quality.

5. Don't pay for the case

From my experience, the person who pawns off any decent guitar will have had it in a case, and the case will likely be out the back of the shop. Ask about the case, ask if it is included in the price, and if not ask why not. 75% you'll get the case for free, 20% heavily discounted, and the remaining 5% involves you walking out of the store. They want the sale just a bad as you want to buy the guitar so let them chase you.

GuitarPartsDepot.com Blog is here to keep you informed so that when buying guitar accessories, you have a better understanding of the equipment at hand.